National
Parks and Monuments
Glacier | Yellowstone
| Petrified Forest | Saguaro
National Park
Organ Pipes | Chiricahua
Mountains | Wupatki Ruins | Sunset
Volcanic Crater
We'll start the National Parks section with a couple of old reports
from our visit a few years ago to Glacier National Park and Yellowstone.
We quickly toured both parks during a vacation to Montana and Wyoming.
Glacier
National Park
Unfortunately, we only a chance to spend about a day and a half
in Glacier. Anna and I can only think of one word to describe Glacier
National Park, and that is WOW!! This is the word that we kept exclaiming
every time we turned a corner, and a new vista came into view. Sometimes
we said it loudly, and sometime almost breathlessly in wonder.
There was a story attributed to another National Park. It goes
like this: "There was a visitor to the park. After entering
the park they located a park ranger and asked the question, 'I only
have an hour to see the park, what would you suggest that I do first?'
The park ranger replied, 'If I only had a an hour to see the park,
I would go over to that field, sit down and cry'."
Every word of that goes for Glacier National Park! Thinking back,
we could actually cry when we think that we only had a little over
a day in the park ourselves.
Having said that, I would recommend that anyone who has even a
couple of hours to spend them in Glacier if at all possible. This
is truly one of the most amazing and breath-taking place that we
have ever been in our lives. Drive the "Going to the Sun"
road at least. This is a very narrow and winding road that travels,
east to west, through the center of the park. This road will give
a real feel for the park without getting out of your car if you
done want to. But I would definitely recommend stopping at the many
pull-offs and getting out for a better look. And of course, a stop
and short hike to Hidden Lake at Logan Pass will be very rewarding.
If you have more time, I would recommend the first place to go
is the Many Glaciers area. This is one the eastern side of the park,
and has a large number of day hiking trails in the area with some
amazing sights. Plenty of wonderful alpine views and wildlife viewing
opportunities. There is also a boat ride on Many Glaciers Lake available.
I would recommend the hikes to Grinnel Glacier, Iceburg Lake, and
Cracker Lake.
One of the amazing things about Glacier National Park is the diversity
of the environments in the park. The west side of the park, for
example, is quite different from the eastern side. As you travel
westward down Going to the Sun road from Logan Pass, you will descend
into large forests of old-growth cedar trees. After the hikes at
Many Glacier, the Tail of the Cedars here will amaze you with it's
striking difference.
It really does not matter where you go, or what you do, in Glacier
National Park. The Park will never fail to take your breath away
with its beauty.
Yellowstone
National Park
As with Glacier, our time in Yellowstone was limited to less than
two whole days. And again, this was only enough to get a small taste
of the park, and not nearly enough time for us. One advantage the
Yellowstone has over Glacier is that the park is much more generally
accessible by car.
The famous draw here is, of course, Old Faithful. But the whole
Upper Geyser Basin should be explored while you are there. We were
much more impressed by Grand Geyser, Grotto Geyser, and Morning
Glory Pool than we were by Old Faithful. The Grand Prismatic Spring
also outshines the famous geyser. A person can easily spend a day,
or two, just visiting the area between the Norris Geyser Basin and
the Upper Geyser Basin (Old Faithful).
For scenery, you also have to stop by the much photographed Yellowstone
Falls (both Upper and Lower). These are accessed by easy parking
at Canyon Village. During our stay, a cousin of Anna's was working
here for the summer. The Upper Falls can be viewed after a short,
if quite steep, walk near the parking area. The Lower Falls require
a little bit more hiking, but the view is definitely worth the effort.
Other than the geyser, and just general majestic beauty of the
park, the main reason to come to Yellowstone is the wildlife. I
am not sure which is more famous now, the bears or the wolves. But
both attract a lot of people and attention. There are also the ever
present bison, elk, and marmots. More rare, you can often see moose
and, in higher elevations of the park, bighorn sheep. Many of the
animals seem to be present every where in the park. Particularly
the bison and elk. But for prime wildlife viewing you just can't
beat the Lamar Valley in the park's northeastern section. It is
here that you will find most of the viewable wolves, bears, and
whole herds of bison. The valley itself is also a beautiful backdrop
for wildlife viewing, and is very enjoyable all by itself.
While in the park don't forget to look up every once in a while.
It you do, you'll catch sight of some spectacular specialty bird
life, as well as frequent sighting of bald eagles.
I also can't forget to mention the beauty of Mammoth Springs. The
brightly colored mineral flows of these natural hot springs would
make the park famous if there was nothing else here. The vividly
red, orange, and yellow colored formations sparkle wonderfully on
a clear day. And the stark white terraces here can be blinding in
their brilliance.
Petrified
Forest National Park
The Petrified Forest National Park is really two parks in one.
There are, of course, the huge logs of petrified wood. But as a
backdrop to this, is the beauty of the Painted Desert. It was this
added panorama of the vividly colored desert landscape that surprised
us the most about this park.
This beauty is spread throughout the park, but reaches it glory
at the northern end. If you're traveling the park road from the
south end, be sure to leave enough time to take in the breath-taking
sight of the many red hued desert valley at the end of the park
road. I would recommend getting to Chinde Point in the late afternoon,
giving yourself plenty of time for staring and photography, and
the find yourself a quite spot to watch the sunset. During sunset
or sunrise this valley is especially beautiful
As for the name sake of the park, the petrified forest of logs,
these are best seen in the southern end of the park. A great introduction
to these wonderfully colored ancient fossils is to take the walking
trail directly behind the southern visitor center. Here you will
find dozens of large section of the petrified trees. The ground
here, as it is elsewhere in the park, is also covered with brightly
colored fragments of these logs. Not far from the visitor center,
take a short hike up to the "long logs" area, and visit
the Agate House.
Also leave yourself plenty of time to enjoy the walk around the
Crystal Forest area. The logs aren't that huge here, but they are
everywhere, and can be quite brightly colored. A longer hike, and
one definitely not to be missed, is the Blue Mesa trail. This trail
includes on the most photography areas of wood in the park. But
the mesas themselves are the true attraction here. This is the beginnings
of the true painted desert area.
Lastly, be sure to check out the pueblo ruins and the areas of
petroglyphs near the ruins. Particularly Newspaper Rock. This enormous
rock is covered in hundreds of petroglyphs!
A note about the park, and it rules on possession of petrified
wood. NO COLLECTING OF WOOD, ROCKS, OR MINERALS IS ALLOW IN THE
PARK. Before entering the park be prepared to declare all pieces
of petrified wood that you have bought or collected elsewhere. The
park ranger will seal these in a bag. Upon leaving the park any
vehicle or person can be subjected to a search, and any undeclared
wood can be ceased (fines and other punishment can also be applied,
as these are federally protected lands).
Saguaro
National Park
This park was created to protect the natural environment and animals
of the southern Sonoran Desert in Arizona. It is divided into two
sections. One to the east of Tucson, and one to the west of the
city. The eastern section is larger, and includes part of a nearby
mountain range. The driving tour will take you up into these mountains
and then return you to the desert valley floor. There are some wonderful
short walks and hikes up in these mountains. The western section
is higher in altitude and mountainous, but it more or less on the
same level. The western tract also has several petroglyph sites
to be explored.
Both sections are very similar in plant and animal life. The plants
all being cactus that is, except for some low palo verde trees and
thorn scrub-brush. Everything here pokes, prods, or sticks. But
in the spring, everything blooms and become beautiful. The cactus
bloom in a multitude of colors, and the palo verde tree blaze with
tiny yellow flowers.
The name-sake of the park, the giant saguaro cactus, are amazing.
In areas you will find whole "forest" of these cactus
reaching high into the sky. They start tiny, and are very slow growing
for the first 15+ years of their lives. They are usually 50 to 75
years old before they start budding their first "arms".
Another amazing fact about the saguaro that we did not know, is
that they have a hard wooded skeleton. With proper conditions they
can live to be hundreds of years old.
We were also intrigued by the diversity of the cholla cactus. From
the buckhorn and staghorn variates; to the teddy bear, jumping chain-fruit,
cane, and christmas chollas. Two plants of the same variety, only
a few feet apart, can bloom in completely different colors! But
these intriguing and beauty cactus are also probably the annoying
and painful of all the cactus we encountered. Particularly the teddy
bear, named because it is so covered in thorns that it looks fuzzy,
and the jumping cholla, so name because they seem to "jump"
onto you if you are anywhere near them. If you brush against a cholla
you don't just get a thorn. Part of the cactus, with many thorns,
breaks off instead. And most of the thorns are covered in a kind
of sheath, so that when you pull the hunk of cactus and thorns off,
you still have the sheathes stuck in you (OOOUCH!!)
The animal life in the park is most nocturnal, as you would expect.
But you can still see deer, coyotes, javalinas, and small rodents
during your visit. And lets not forget the rattlesnakes, gila monsters,
and lizards (there are some very beautifully colored lizards in
the desert). As for birds; keep your eyes out for greater road runners,
harris hawks, owls, gila woodpeckers, gilded flickers, cactus and
rock wrens, and the red eyed phainpepla.
If you go hiking in this park take plenty of water no matter what
time of year or day, and a map and compass. Wear sturdy shoes and
check them often for cactus thorns, and the thorn will work themselves
upward into you foot in time. For this reason it is also recommend
to take a small pair of needle-nosed pliers. The pliers will help
to pull thorn out of you too, but a large toothed comb also works
very well when removing attached cholla nodules without further
injuring yourself.
If your are visit the Saguaro National Park, make sure to schedule
time to also stop at the nearby Arizona - Sonora Desert Museum.
Organ
Pipes National Mounument, Arizona
This really a massive park, but there is really only has one paved
road, and that is the highway leading through the park and into
Mexico. The visitor center and nearby campground are also paved.
The rest of the roads are dirt or gravel. Sometimes little more
than rutted dirt tracks. Be very sure to have plenty of gas and
water before going into this park. This is a very remote area, with
no cell phone coverage and very few people. The south side of the
park ends at the Mexican border. If you're not camping the closest
regular accommodations are in the same town of Ajo.
The organ pipe cactus themselves can be quite huge, and grow naturally
no where else in the US. They spring up in a clump and all the arms
shoot straight up without branching. Many were 20 to 30 feet tall.
Of course the park is also covered in saguaro and cholla cactus.
Walking off road and off-trail can also be dangerous. In the warmer
months of the year the rattlesnakes and gila monster are out. Then
of course there is the hazard of getting all those cactus spines
in the soles of your shoes, where they will work upward into the
bottom of your feet. Everything included, this is a spectacular
park, and well worth the experience. Our only regret is not having
more time. I would recommend at least to take a tour of the Ajo
Mountain Drive. This drive makes a large 22 mile circle up through
a mountainous area, and will really give you the flavor of these
lands. Just make sure to have a high clearance vehicle (we saw a
couple of cars, but they weren't the low riding type). This road
start directly across from the visitor center.
In the spring this park can come alive with blooming wild flowers,
cactus, and ocotilla. Good rainfall in the winter and early spring
are required to bring out the full colors. Even in the dried years
the cactus and ocotilla will still bloom. The ocotilla may not have
any leaves, but it will still bloom. While we were visiting the
yellow palo verde trees were in the height of there bloom, and they
were a brilliant yellow of tiny blossoms against the deep blue sky.
Chiricahua
Mountains National Mounument, Arizona
The National Park Service describes this place as being a "wonderland
of rocks" and a "forest of rock spires". Both are
an accurate description of this marvelous place. These mountains
are truly amazing! We have never seen anything like them before
in all our travels. The mountain range was formed by an erupting
volcano about 27 million years ago. Since then they have been eroding
into some amazing shapes. There are whole fields of tall granite
pinnacles, huge boulders balancing on other thin spires, and wind
carved mazes through the boulders. The Chiricahua Indians called
these mountains "The Land of Standing-Up Rocks". The view
from the mountain-top parking area is truly breath taking. The highest
peak here, Flys Peak, is almost 9,800 feet tall.
Mountain areas like this in southeastern Arizona are called "Shy
Islands", because they are surrounded by a "sea"
of grasslands. Because of their location the plants and animals
of four different environments; the Rocky Mountains, Sierra Madre
Mountains, Sonora Desert, and Chihuahua Desert, all come together
here (the soutern end of the mountain range ends just 18 mile from
the Mexican border). The eastern side of the mountain range is especially
famous for spotting some very rare birds, some of which nest there.
Including 13 species of hummingbirds and the elegant trogon.
The main road of the park is an 8 mile drive up to one of the mountain
tops. On the way you'll past he old Faraway Ranch, an old 1880's
farmstead not too far from the entrance. Here and in the camp ground
you will find large flocks of Mexican Blue Jays. The camping area
is up the road just a little ways from the farmstead. From the camp
area you really start to head up into the mountains, and really
start to get a feel for the true beauty and uniqueness of the park.
On the way up, and at the top, there are a number of pull-offs and
parking lots for you to get out and do some sight-seeing.
There are over 12 day use hikes to be taken here, and this park
in also surrounded by the Coronado National Forest, providing an
even wide range for hiking. If your traveling trough southern Arizona,
take the time to drive the south of the town of Wilcox, and visit
this amazing place. Even if you only have time to tour the park
road to the mountain top.
Wupatki
Ruins National Monument, Arizona
This National Monument has many accessible ruins sites, and a
couple of them are quite extensive. The largest of these being right
behind the visitor center, and includes an amphitheater and a circular
ball court. One of the most amazing to us was a whole structure,
almost like a castle, built entirely on top of a massive boulder.
Most others are built on top of small hills. All and all this is
the most extensive set of ruins that we found in the state of Arizona.
Most of the ruins are from 800 years ago. Sometimes it seemed that
no matter where you looked you could find the remains of some kind
an adobe structure. All of these ruins are set against the backdrop
of the beautiful painted desert, which is worth the trip just to
see that.
There are many places to stop and visit here. Most are not that
far of a walk from the parking area. Stop at the visitor center
and get one of their self guiding tour maps. Also check with them
about exploring on your own for other ruins and petroglyphs.
A last note for film buffs. Some of the opening scenes from the
movie "Easy Rider" were films along roads in the National
Monument.
Sunset
Crater National Monument, Arizona
This park is just a few miles south of the Wupatki Ruins on the
south side. On a planned trip to visit the ruins we were amazed
to find a volcanic crater in the middle of Arizona. Many areas in
Arizona were formed by volcanoes (this is actually only one of over
600 past volcanoes in this area alone). The difference is that Sunset
Mountain erupted fairly recently in geological time. Somewere around
930 years ago. It is still very obviously a volcano from your first
glance, and was definitely an unexpected sight for us.
Stretching for miles around this mountain are areas that are covered
with massive lava flows. Other areas are covered in fields of volcanic
cinder, eroded black sand, and gravel that make up the "dirt"
here. In many ways this is much like Hawaii in the middle of Arizona.
The volcano crater itself shows some brightly colored hues of red
and yellow. Especially when framed by the black lava below and Arizona's
usually deep blue sky above. You can get a great view of this from
the Cinder Hills Overlook.
Walking some of the trails here, like the Bonito Lava Flow trail
can seem like your walking into a foreign landscape. If you visit
here, and are out walking or hiking the trails you have to be very
careful where you step. The lava can be very sharp and brittle.
Both the lava and the cinder fields can provide unstable footing.
Plan to ware boots or shoes with good support. Or stick to the paved
areas (you'll still get excellent views).
The park is at about 7000 ft in elevation. Most of the trees on
hill sides are pine and aspen, with pinyon pines in the lower and
rockier areas. In the large trees keep your eyes out for the unusual
and very long-eared Albert's squirrel. Due to the inhospitably of
the lava flows, which cover 25% of the park, most of the animals
you see will be of the smaller varieties. But sightings of mule
deer, elk, and even pronghorn antelope are possible.
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